Upright & Stowed

A Thousand Words

My Mac has a new hard drive (whew!), so I can blog again ... with full facility.  Here are the photos to accompany my post from Sept 4th.   More to come.

This is the food I ate for six days while staying in the aid worker's compound in the refugee camps.  As you can see, lunch and dinner consisted of white rice, beige rice, fried potatoes, stewed potatoes/carrots, mixed carrots/peas and the occasional carnivorous item.

Here's a shot of the UN airplane I flew in to both refugee camps.  It looks official and important on the outside.  On the inside, my tray table was held in place by scotch tape.  Still, an incredible service.

 

This is one of the thorn trees which are the primary species in this part of the desert.  They're beautiful, but also something out of a certain nightmare.

Camels.  Cute, eh?

 

Note the mosquito net over my bed.  Unfortunately one hungry little critter got through on my first night in Dadaab. Fortunately, I've got my Malarone to protect me against malaria.

Here I am with a group of the amazing refugees who work with my organization, in the most challenging of environments. Inspiring.

Imagination Time

Sadly, I am unable to post any photos because my computer died earlier in the week.  If I could, here is what you would see:

[X]  This is a picture of the food I ate for six days while staying in the aid worker's compound in the refugee camps.  As you can see, lunch and dinner consisted of white rice, beige rice, fried potatoes, stewed potatoes/carrots, mixed carrots/peas and the occasional carnivorous item.

[X] This is a picture of the UN airplane I flew in to both refugee camps.  It looks official and important on the outside.  On the inside, my tray table was held in place by scotch tape.  Still, an incredible service.

[X]  This is a shot of the thorn trees which are the primary species in this part of the desert.  They're beautiful, but also something out of a certain nightmare.

[X] Here are some camels.  Cute, eh?

[X]  Note the mosquito net over my bed.  Unfortunately one hungry little critter got through on my first night in Dadaab. Fortunately, I've got my Malarone to protect me against malaria.

I hope you like these pictures.  More to come!

   (Note: After visiting the Apple store this weekend, the accompanying pics will follow.)

David: Alive. David's Mac: Dead.

I have just returned from three challenging, amazing days in the Dadaab refugee camp.  To say that life in Dadaab is difficult would be an enormous understatement.  The desert in north-eastern is very harsh, and the (mostly) Somali residents rely on a massive humanitarian aid system to provide for nearly all of their needs.  My non-profit is the smallest of organizations working there - and though our work is making a positive impact, the amount of assistance this transient community needs is daunting.  I was humbled by the experience of seeing the situation in Dadaab and awed by the effort of the people and operations working to make life bearable for the community.

In a minor tragedy (for my blog and blog readers), my faithful Powerbook died on the flight to Dadaab.  I'm pretty handy fixing Mac problems, but alas, my situation clearly requires hardware attention.  So, no more pictures until I return to NYC and get the mac fixed.  :-((

I'm prety bummed, because I was loving sharing my journey in pictures.  But you can keep looking at the old ones, and I'll keep posting the words.

On Safari

For some reason, taking an African safari has never made it to the top of my vacation wish list.  But work brought me to Kenya, so clearly now is safari time.  Lucky me.

This weekend Steve and I had a two-day break (no Labor Day here in Kenya!) so we headed to the Masai Mara, Kenya’s most famous game reserve.  Bordering Tanzania’s famed Serengeti reserve, the combined Mara-Serengeti boasts over 2 million animals.  Spotting these storied creatures in their natural habitat doing their natural things – mostly eating – was simply amazing.  Our timing was also perfect because we are in the midst of the annual wildebeest migration.   Roughly 1.4 million of these hilarious looking animals migrate from the Serengeti to the Mara and back again.  They travel in giant herds, and when the cross a river in search of better grazing, it is a sight to behold. 

The local community is the Masai tribe.  Among many fascinating attributes:  their primary currency is cattle; their diet is mainly milk and blood, which they extract from cows without killing them; they are polygamous; and they jump incredibly high from a standing-still position.  Strange and beautiful people.  Below are some shots from my African safari.   Enjoy.  (The shot above is me preparing this blog entry on the "tarmac" in the Masai Mara.)

Next up: The Dadaab Refugee Camp in east-central Kenya, home to more than 200,000 refugees and one of my organization’s operations.  Most of its refugees come from Somalia, having fled radical Islamic militants.  Dadaab, sadly, is growing. 

A pride of lions.  Hell, if I looked this fierce I'd be proud too.

Watchful mama.  I could stare at the elephants all day long.  Wonderful, amazing creatures.

Even more watchful cheetah mama.  An awesome sighting.

Sunrise over the Mara (and my tightly cropped head).

Giraffes.  So graceful and amazing.

Black rhino and cub, through our vehicle window.  Rhinos are highly endangered, and one of Africa's most thrilling sightings.

If these animals are noshing all day, why shouldn't I join them?  A meal at my phenomenal tented camp, called Bateleur.

Kibera Kids

It is hard to imagine an experience more moving than my stay at the Kakuma refugee camp, but today provided just that.  This afternoon we paid a visit to the Kibera slum – Nairobi’s largest – with a population of one million.  We visited an organization called the Hot Sun Foundation, which works with Kibera youth to help them tell their own stories of life in the slum. 

Several members of the program guided Steve and me through their community.  I was, admittedly, very nervous about this experience before it began.  My “outsider” emotions about slum life are – probably like yours – ones of sadness, despair, fear and yes, pity.  It is hard to have any other perspective from the places we live.

But the energy and enthusiasm of these kids was electric.  They were so proud to show us Kibera – not because of its wonders, but because it is the teaming community and culture that they know.  It contains their stories, and they call it home.   Earlier this month, my non-profit worked with Hot Sun and held a screening of a movie plus a short film made by the Hot Sun community itself.  More than 2,000 people stood for over two hours watching, into the night.  How is that for incredible!?!

Some pictures of my visit follow.  Tomorrow I am off to the Masai Mara region for a weekend safari.  More when I return.

The amazing Hot Sun team.  My smile is the thrill that comes with learning what these people are doing, seemingly against all odds.

The active railroad tracks that cut through the Kibera slum.

Kibera's most famous graffiti artist, Solo 7.  How about that message!

Me and Steve with Hot Sun leader Godi.

Movie offerings in Kibera.

A skyline view.  Depressing from the outside, but less so when hosted by its residents.

Artistic expression is everywhere.

And so is Barack!

3 Days in Kakuma

I have returned to Nairobi after spending 3 days in the Kakuma Refugee Camp in the northwest corner of Kenya.  Kakuma has been in operation since 1992 and currently hosts over 50,000 refugees who have fled war and violence throughout eastern Africa.

I am here with one of many humanitarian organizations that deliver critical aid to the residents of Kakuma, all under the general oversight of the United Nations High Commission on Refugees (UNHCR). 

Kakuma is a tapestry of East African nations.  Its residents are Sudanese, Ethiopian, Rwandan, Ugandan, Burundian, Congolese and Somali, among others.   Each of these communities needs information, and they need it in ways that they can understand and relate to.   The non-profit I am working with gathers groups as small as 25 and as large as 2,000 to show films and videos with messages the communities request and often – through participatory means – have created themselves.  It’s an amazing operation, and I was moved and humbled by what I saw. 

I am on this trip because we are developing strategies to take this amazing work to other places where it is needed.  I am too tired to reflect much more right now, but here are some pictures to illustrate a small piece of my journey so far.

Top Picture:  A Daytime Cartoon Screening for Children

Above:  A group of refugees in the organization's Participatory Video Program, working on a documentary.  I'm the white guy.

Above:  Two of my colleagues on the trip.  Amazing people.

Above:  Where the stars go, David goes.

Above:  Strike a pose.

Above:  World Food Program and USAid.  Something to feel good about.

Above: My room in the compound.  Way more luxe than expected.  Malaria net included.

Above:  The camp hospital , run by IRC.  An amazing operation.  Hard to find words for the experience of touring this place.

Above:  The entrance to the Kakuma refugee camp.  And me.

It's A Small World....

It took two and a quarter hours in choking traffic to get from the Nairobi airport to my hotel.  Look what I saw on the way. 

I'm leaving at the crack of dawn tomorrow on a small plane to the northwest corner of Kenya.  I'll spend three days in a refugee camp operated by the United Nations, outside the town of Kakuma.  Over 50,000 refugees live there, having fled violence in Sudan, Rwanda and Uganda.  FilmAid runs programs that reach thousands every month.  I expect to learn a lot while visiting.   Pictures and reflections to come, upon my return to Nairobi.

East Africa!

I made it to East Africa!!!!  My flight touched down at Nairobi’s Kenyatta airport early this morning and though I’m exhausted, I am very excited about the venture ahead.

We flew American to London and Virgin to Nairobi.  One reflection:  In the sack, I’d choose the experienced player over the ingénue any day.  When it comes to long-haul travel, go for the Virgin.  

RTG

• I just got a shot for Typhoid Fever and also one for Yellow Fever.
• I already have immunity to Hep A, Hep B, Measles, Mumps, Rubella, Polio and Tetanus.
• I had my doctor prescribe antibiotic, anti-diarrhea and anti-malaria pills.
• I’m ready to sleep, cause I’ve got me some  Lorazepam and Triazalom.
• I checked my passport, and it’s good for another 6 years.
• I bought 30 or so energy bars, and I’m well stocked with sunscreen, Deet, anti-inflammatory and triple antibiotic ointment.
• My friend Paul gave me a really short, really cute haircut, so I don’t have to pack creams or gels. 
• Bottom line, I’m ready to go to Africa.

Africa Bound

I was getting worried that this might be the first year in a long while that I failed to leave the shores of North America. 

Happily, my passport is out and I’m ready to roll.  Where to?  KENYA!!!!

The Background:  Since April I have been working with an amazing non-profit that is run by my friend Steve.  I’ve been doing a bunch of strategy and development planning, and this is becoming my primary work focus.  In an effort to better understand the organization's humanitarian methodologies, I am heading to Kenya (with a short stopover in London) to witness its work in progress, and to do some forward planning for the organization.

The centerpiece of my trip will be separate journeys to two enormous refugee camps, each sustaining hundreds of thousands of people.  Hopefully I'll be able to squeeze in a 2-day safari over the second weekend.  More to come, once I arrive.  For now, it’s time to get packing.  And to prepare mentally for a long-ass journey … in coach!