This picture of me and my numero-uno travel buddy
Michael was taken in 1999, which partially explains the longer hair and more radiant skin.
The month is November. The time is dusk. The river is the Ganges. And the location is Varanasi, India. Long known as "Benares," the Indian government officially changed its name to the historic Varanasi in 1956.
My brief 2 day visit to Varanasi was one of the highlights of my lifelong travels. It is among the holiest places on earth for Hindus.
The riverbank is lined with "Ghats," which are ceremonial stairs leading to the water and used to facilitate bathing in the river. To come to Varanasi and bathe in the waters (which, I should note, are highly polluted) is one of the most sacred experiences a Hindu person can have. We observed these rituals for two days, and they are most intense as the sun sets. Many families bring their dying or dead here and burn the bodies in pyres along the river. As a traveler, I feel blessed to have witnessed this holy ritual. It is awesome.
Yesterday, a series of bombs was detonated in Varanasi, killing at least 15 people. Hearing that news made me very sad, and prompted this post. Yet India has been shaped by centuries of nearly incomprehensible violence, perpetrated by and against every faction of people who has lived here. Many of its most beautiful historic places are built on a history of violence and subordination. But that's true of pretty much every place human beings have tread.
India is a traveler's dream come true. If you haven't been, put it on your list. It will change you.
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